Cook This: 3 recipes from Bread Etc., including tangzhong milk bread buns

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Our cookbook of the week is Bread Etc.: Recipes + Techniques for Baking with Sourdough, Yeasted Dough, Pizza Dough + More by Ontario-based chef and baker Matthew James Duffy.

Jump to the recipes: tangzhong milk bread buns, challah and pecan pie babka.

People often ask Matthew James Duffy what his No. 1 tip for bakers is. The answer is repetition. “You make a different recipe every single weekend, and that’s a mistake. You need to make the same thing over and over and over and over,” he says while egg-washing 20 loaves of challah under the pink glow of the “Pain au Levain” (“sourdough bread,” in French) neon sign hanging in his kitchen.

The Stouffville, Ont.-based chef, culinary instructor and self-described “bread fanatic” has worked at acclaimed bakeries, pizzerias and restaurants in Canada and abroad, including Noma, Langdon Hall and Café Boulud. In his cookbook debut, Bread Etc., Duffy shares a comprehensive guide to bread baking, including sourdough, yeasted dough and pizza.

He suggests picking a recipe, such as challah — which he learned from cookbook author Bonnie Stern and often bakes with his family on Fridays to celebrate Shabbat — and making it a few weeks in a row. Then, move on to the next recipe.

When Duffy is teaching, he likes to give students the example of baker Xavier Netry from the Utopie bakery, who won Paris’s annual “Grand Prix de la baguette” prize in 2024. He interviewed the award-winner in Paris last fall and asked him how many baguettes they shape each day. With one other baker, Netry makes an astonishing 1,000 to 1,200 of the iconic French loaves in a single shift.

“You shape maybe four a year at home. Maybe you’re obsessive about baguettes, and you shape 30 in a year, but it’s not even close to the way the skill develops — the way you learn to bake,” says Duffy. “That’s why the challah recipe is so important, because you can really develop your baking through it.”

Duffy opens the book with the basics of baking bread, from ingredients and equipment to understanding wheat and gluten. He says that a scale and a thermometer are two of the most important tools a bread baker can have. In Bread Etc., Duffy lists the ingredients in metric measurements (weight) instead of volume (cups) for accuracy and consistency.

“My hope is that someone who picks up this book is someone who wants to learn bread baking,” says Duffy. “So, why not start with success? Start with the best way, be successful and grow the skill. Scales aren’t that expensive, but they’re just so important.”

Duffy recently surpassed 100K YouTube subscribers, and he has another 197K followers on Instagram and 234K on TikTok. He’s built his following, in large part, on his sourdough recipes and baking guides, but made a point of casting his net wider in Bread Etc. and including yeasted doughs as well.

“I’m not a sourdough purist, and I don’t necessarily think that sourdough is better, and I also hate the elitist attitude that comes from a lot of sourdough bakers. Here’s the one that kills me: ‘I only bake with sourdough. It’s so much healthier. It’s better for your gut. Here’s my sourdough sticky bun recipe,'” says Duffy. “You’re better off eating a whole-wheat, yeasted bagel.”

He set out to build an approachable baking brand within the sourdough niche, minus the elitism. “I want everyone to feel like they can make bread. I don’t want you to think that you need three days, and you have to buy or make a starter. Some people get so intimidated by that.”

Take the pita recipe in the book, for example, which you can make in less than 30 minutes, start to finish. Or the yeasted challahs Duffy is baking as he talks, which tend to be a bit more forgiving than sourdough. “I also think there’s beauty in those breads,” says Duffy, adding that he wanted the book to be a resource for beginners and advanced bakers alike.

For new bakers, making yeasted breads will help build foundational skills they can later apply to more advanced loaves, especially if they get into sourdough.

Duffy fell for bread early in his career, while working at Rundles, a now-closed fine-dining restaurant in Stratford, Ont. But his first professional foray was far from a success. He hadn’t paid attention to baking in class at Stratford Chefs School and was unprepared for the task of making sourdough bread for the dinner service. Watching chef de cuisine Neil Baxter throw the dough into the dumpster and proceed to make quick buns instead, Duffy’s first thought was, “I’m never doing that again.” But this quickly morphed into, “I’m going to show you.” He read Jeffrey Hamelman’s Bread book every day after work, kick-starting a decades-long career in baking.

“It became this thing that I thought would give me a competitive edge and a better career, and that really turned into me just being fully obsessed. As we speak, I’m turning the tray of challah in the oven. I’m a fully obsessed baker,” says Duffy. “It’s just become this pursuit of knowledge. And I think that’s one of the best things about bread baking is, you never know everything. And I’m still learning just as much as anyone who picks up my book for the first time. I feel like I’m still on that journey with them.”

TANGZHONG MILK BREAD BUNS

Makes: Nine 80 to 85 g rolls

Tangzhong:
25 g whole wheat flour
126 g water

Final dough:
Tangzhong (prepared as in step 1)
366 g bread flour
146 g whole milk, room temperature
48 g egg (about 1 medium), beaten
6 g milk powder
37 g white sugar
7 g salt
7 g instant yeast
33 g butter, room temperature
Egg Wash (see recipe)

TANGZHONG

Step 1

Prepare the tangzhong: In a small saucepan over medium heat, combine the flour and water. Cook for 3 to 4 minutes, stirring often, until thickened (the starches in the flour and water will gelatinize to make a paste) and the paste has reached 149F to 158F (65C to 70C). Transfer to a wide, flat container and cover with plastic pressed directly against the tangzhong’s surface; let cool to room temperature, about 30 minutes.

FINAL DOUGH

Step 2

Mixing: To the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the tangzhong, bread flour, milk, egg, milk powder, sugar, salt, yeast and butter. Mix on low until a soft dough forms, 3 to 4 minutes. Increase to high speed and mix until the dough is smooth, about 5 to 6 minutes. The desired dough temperature is 79F (26C).

Alternatively, mix by hand for 12 to 15 minutes. (Note: This dough will be sticky if mixed by hand).

Step 3

Bulk fermentation: Cover the bowl with a plastic bag or kitchen towel and let the dough rise at room temperature for 30 to 40 minutes.

Step 4

Shaping: Punch down the dough, then divide it into nine portions (80 to 85 g each). With a claw-shaped hand, roll each portion against an unfloured area of the counter in a circular motion to form a ball. Pick the dough balls up, flip them over and pinch the bottoms so there are no openings. Place them seam-side down in an oiled 9-inch (23-cm) square baking tin.

Step 5

Final fermentation: Proof, covered with a plastic bag or kitchen towel, at room temperature for at least 1 and up to 2 hours. The rolls are ready to bake when they have roughly doubled in size and are light to the touch. To check, gently press a finger into the dough; it should spring back but leave a slight indent.

Step 6

Prepare to bake: Preheat the oven to 375F (190C), or to 350F (175C) for convection.

Step 7

Baking: Brush the rolls with egg wash. Bake for 25 minutes, or until the tops are golden brown.

Step 8

Cooling: Transfer the rolls from the pan to a wire rack to cool.

EGG WASH

1 large egg
1/4 tsp water
1/8 tsp salt

In a small bowl, whisk together the egg, water and salt until smooth, and there are no streaks of white, then strain through a fine-mesh sieve. (Alternatively, combine the ingredients in a small jar and shake to combine.)

CHALLAH

Makes: Two 875 g loaves

423 g water
14 g active dry yeast
111 g eggs (about 2 large), beaten
101 g white sugar
76 g olive oil
806 g bread flour
201 g stone-ground or whole spelt flour
18 g salt
Egg Wash (see recipe)
1/2 cup sesame or poppy seeds, for sprinkling (optional)

MIXING

Step 1

To the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook, add the water and yeast. Mix on low just to combine. Add the eggs, sugar and olive oil, followed by the flours and salt. Mix on low until combined with no dry patches, about 2 minutes. Increase to medium speed and mix until the dough is smooth, about 4 minutes. The desired dough temperature is 79F to 82F (26C to 28C).

Alternatively, mix by hand for 8 to 10 minutes.

BULK FERMENTATION

Step 2

Cover the bowl with a plastic bag or kitchen towel and let the dough rise at room temperature for 60 minutes.

PRE-SHAPING AND REST

Step 3

Using a plastic dough scraper, transfer the dough to a work surface. Gently flatten it into a rectangle, then divide it into two pieces (875 g each). To make a four-strand challah, divide each of the pieces into four (219 g each). To make a three-strand challah, divide each of the pieces into three (292 g each). Flatten each piece slightly, then roll into a cylinder. Rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

FINAL SHAPING

Step 4

To make a three-strand challah: Roll each cylinder into a strand 18 inches (45 cm) long. Ideally, the middle of the strand will be slightly wider, and the ends tapered, so it looks like a French-style rolling pin or a snake that has eaten a mouse. Line the three strands up lengthwise, then overlap their tails on the end farthest from you, with the tail of the middle strand on top. Number the position of the strands 1 to 3 (left, middle and right). The numbers themselves will stay put, meaning that, as you move a strand, it becomes the number of the position it’s in, not the number it was originally. Bring strand 1 over strand 2 so it’s in the middle. Then bring strand 3 over strand 2, placing it in the middle. Repeat until the braid is complete, then tuck in or taper the ends slightly to finish.

To make a four-strand round challah: Alternatively, roll each cylinder into a strand 16 inches (40 cm) long. Roll the strands evenly, with no bulge in the middle. You are going to create a tic-tac-toe pattern with the strands. First, place one strand in front of you lengthwise. Lay a second strand over it in the opposite direction, about three-quarters of the way up. Place the third strand over the second strand, running parallel to the first. Place the fourth strand across the bottom, about one-quarter of the way up, to create a square in the middle of the four strands. Make sure each strand has one part over and one part under another. Starting with the strand closest to you, move it clockwise, placing it over the strand next to it. Then take the strand underneath the one you just moved and move it clockwise, placing it over the next strand. Repeat until you have to pull and slightly stretch the last strand, then tuck them all under, toward the middle. This will help the challah hold its height.

FINAL FERMENTATION

Step 5

Proof, covered with a plastic bag or kitchen towel, at room temperature for at least 1 1/2 and up to 2 hours. The dough is ready to bake when it has roughly doubled in size and is light to the touch. To check, gently press a finger into the dough; it should spring back but leave a slight indent.

PREPARE TO BAKE

Step 6

With the racks in the upper-middle and lower-middle positions, preheat the oven to 400F (205C), or to 375F (190C) for convection. Line two sheet pans with parchment paper. Double up the sheet pan you will be placing on the lower rack with another sheet pan, to diffuse the heat from the oven and prevent the challah from burning. (Note: If you don’t have a third sheet pan, you can simply bake the loaves one at a time on the upper-middle rack.)

BAKING

Step 7

Place one challah on each prepared pan. Brush the loaves with egg wash and, if desired, sprinkle with seeds. Bake for 15 to 18 minutes, or until fully risen and beginning to take on colour. Rotate the pans between the top and bottom racks and bake for 10 to 15 minutes, or until they are golden brown and have a slight shine.

COOLING

Step 8

Transfer the challahs from the pans to a wire rack to cool.

PECAN PIE BABKA

Makes: One 10-inch (25 cm) round babka

1/2 batch Challah dough (see recipe), prepared to the end of the bulk fermentation stage

Filling:
343 g pecan halves
125 g butter, room temperature
87 g maple syrup
250 g brown sugar
15 g ground cinnamon
7 g vanilla paste or extract
Egg Wash (see recipe)

Simple syrup:
88 g white sugar
74 g water

FILLING

Step 1

Toast the nuts: Preheat the oven to 350F (175C). Toast the pecans on a lined sheet pan for 15 to 18 minutes, stirring halfway through, until evenly toasted. Let cool to room temperature, then roughly chop.

Step 2

Make the filling: To a large mixing bowl, add the butter, maple syrup, brown sugar and cinnamon. Mix until fully combined.

BABKA

Step 3

Filling and shaping: Roll the dough into a 20 x 12-inch (50 x 30 cm) rectangle, 1/2 inch (1.25 cm) thick. Spread the filling in an even layer over the dough, leaving a 3/4-inch (2 cm) border on one of the long sides. Evenly distribute the toasted pecans over the filling.

Starting at the long side where the filling goes right to the edge, roll the rectangle into a cylinder. As you roll, tuck and push toward the middle of the dough, keeping the roll taut.

Using a bread knife, cut the cylinder in half lengthwise, so the filling and layers are visible. Attach the two pieces at the ends farthest from you by pinching them together with your fingers, then begin crossing them over each other to make a twist.

Once the strands are fully twisted, starting with the thinner end, spiral the twist inward, forming it into a round. Carefully transfer it to a lightly oiled 10-inch (25-cm) cake pan. The dough won’t quite fill out the pan.

Step 4

Final fermentation: Proof, covered with a plastic bag or kitchen towel, at room temperature for at least 2 and up to 3 hours. The dough is ready to bake when it has roughly doubled in size and is light to the touch. To check, gently press a finger into the dough; it should spring back but leave a slight indent.

Step 5

Prepare to bake: Preheat the oven to 350F (175C). Make the egg wash by whisking together the egg, water and salt until combined and no egg white remains.

Step 6

Baking: Brush the babka with the egg wash. Bake for 40 to 45 minutes, or until risen and golden brown.

Step 7

Make the simple syrup: In a small saucepan over high heat, combine the sugar and water and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Step 8

Cooling: Place a wire rack inside a rimmed sheet pan. When the babka is done, transfer the pan to the rack and let cool for 2 minutes, then carefully transfer the babka to a serving dish. You can use a spatula or spoon to help lift it out of the pan, but be careful: the caramel will be very hot. Spoon any sauce left in the pan over the babka, then brush the simple syrup over top. Let cool for 45 to 60 minutes before serving warm or at room temperature.

Recipes and images excerpted from Bread Etc.: Recipes + Techniques for Baking with Sourdough, Yeasted Dough, Pizza Dough + More by Matthew James Duffy. Copyright ©2025 Matthew James Duffy. Photographs by Alex Nirta. Published by Appetite by Random House®, a division of Penguin Random House Canada Limited. Reproduced by arrangement with the Publisher. All rights reserved.

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